Busted

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Many visitors to Yellowstone National Park do not realize that there are only about 152 elk who actually live in the park full-time. I know, that’s not many, but facts is facts. They also don’t know that there are approximately a hundred million, million visitors that come to the park each year. And every single one of them, those visitors, regardless of where they’re from or how goofy their clothes are, all want to see an elk, or maybe even two or three. (Note to People: Dress up people, wear some decent clothes, what do you thing this is WalMart? Nobody wears tie-dyed shorts anymore)  So if we do the math that’s approximately one elk for every eleven million people. And since those visitors do not tend to stay in one place for very long, especially since they’re in those big busses and those drivers have schedules to keep, they’re moved around a bunch. Now Yellowstone is a big place. I’d say it’s somewhere between Rhode Island and Texas in size, no one has ever actually measured it so we have to guess some at how big it really is, but its big. You can’t walk across it in a day.

So here’s the dilemma. Big park, many visitors, few elk. How are you going to make sure that everybody gets to see one or maybe two or three. This is where it gets good. They use computers, big honking ones that they got second-hand from a college, called Cray Computers. They were the biggest, fastest, most braggable computers somebody could have. We had one in our town and I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s where the Yellowstone people got theirs, from us when we trashed-canned it because the new iPhone had more power when it came out. Ours did amazing stuff and one of our biggest claim to fame was using our super computer to time the traffic lights right here on College Ave. You could drive from one end of College to the other at sixty miles an hour and never hit a light. That was very cool.

The elk however are not very computer savvy. Let’s take a moment, Savvy, there’s a word you don’t hear very much any more, who would use the word savvy now a days, let’s use it a sentence shall we. “You must be pretty computer savvy.” Nope doesn’t work. But back to the problem at hand, elk not being computer savvy. What the park service did and this is genius, is put each elk on a schedule, where they worked a 12 hour shift and where in the park they did that shift. Brilliant. One day it would be on the Madison river just up from seven mile bridge, the next day it would be up in the parking lot at Mammoth, and then they could pull a shift over in the Lamar valley or up on the Yellowstone in the Hayden. Lots of moving around, lots of exposure, and most importantly lots of face time with the tourists.

But, and its big one, here’s the fly in the tapioca, Elk don’t like schedules, and they get sick and tired of tourists and they flat-out refuse to pull their load sometimes. So they hide. This plays havoc with the IT boys because it really screws up everything. Their carefully worked out programs get all over wonky of a sudden, the bus schedules get out of whack, the transport system used to haul the elk around to their various duty stations breaks down, you didn’t think the elk walked to those places did you? Do you know how far it is from the Northeast end of the Lamar to the Madison? Well its far. It is just a big mess. So out go the rangers to find the mutineers and get them back on the program.

Well, elk are clever but not very smart. These two in the photo above have hidden themselves by squatting, well I guess lying down would be a better choice of words, in the tall grass so that they couldn’t be found. Unfortunately the mental genius of the two left his great big obvious antlers sticking three feet into the air kind of negating the whole hiding thing. They always act so surprised when the rangers find them, like, “Whoa man, how did you find me? I was totally hidden dude. What, do you like have x-ray vision or something.” and then they’re put on the truck and its off to the Norris campground or somewhere where the next bus is due.

It is a flawed system for sure but it is the only one they’ve got and so they make the best of it. It’s not so bad for the elk, once they’ve dodged the wolf packs, they get to eat all day if they want, they get their antlers buffed so they make for better photo ops, the ones who don’t miss a shift or are never tardy get to choose where they want to winter in the off-season. All in all it could be worse. So our tip for you our loyal readers is if you want to see elk in Yellowstone, you’ve got to slip one of the IT guys a fiver and he’ll give you a copy of the next days schedule.Then you can be there before the next tour bus pulls up and have as much as a half an hour or so with the elk all to yourself. Groovy right? The guy I talk to is Brad, tell him I sent you.

Ring of Bright Otters

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They’re not rare, they’re not even uncommon, but they are elusive. There are people who have been going to Yellowstone for years that have never seen them and then there are those first timers who casually say , “Oh yeah we’ve seen them every day this week, want to see a picture”. It just goes to show you that life is unfair and it’s often unkind. Otters is what we’re talking about. Otters here, otters there, Otters everywhere, just not where you are when you want to take their picture. I was one of the fortunate because I was lucky enough to find them floating and fishing their way down the Madison river one afternoon and they stayed in a stretch of the river known as the log jam near seven mile bridge for several hours. That’s where I got hooked. From that point on Otters have been one of the big three for me whenever I’m in the park. This particular bunch happened to be up at the north end of Lake Yellowstone in Pelican creek near Indian pond and were headed back out into the lake. There were several den holes in the bank along the creek and they had been resting in one getting ready for as much chaos and mayhem as they could pack into the rest of the day. As you no doubt know each otter contains all the energy in eleven five-year olds who have been fed all the sugar they could gag down and then compressed into a long sleek supple body created solely for mischief. Fun to watch but don’t get involved.

Birthin’ Babies

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Buffalo are a lot like other creatures that have babies, they’re just bigger is all, and because they are bigger you can’t always tell that they’re pregnant. Such was the case with this young cow that was soon to be a mother. Whenever I go to Yellowstone, as a creature of habit I have a tradition, or ritual, OK an obsession, where my very first picture has to be of a buffalo. They are the icon for me that represents Yellowstone and all the creatures and natural wonders that makes the park the unique place it is and what draws me back there year after year. As I entered the park from the western entrance and drove along the Madison river watching the herds I noticed a grouping of cows within but slightly separate from the main herd. I pulled off the road, got out and casually ran my lens over the slowly milling animals looking for one that might be my opening shot. Suddenly, without warning, the young cow near the center of the picture began to spin around and out popped a calf. It flew through the air and landed on the ground with a thud. The cows who seemed to be acting as mid-wives and had been keeping an eye on this expectant mother all stood stock still. I stood stock still. It could not have been more unexpected or had any greater impact on me had it happened at Westminster cathedral. I looked around at the other people standing near me and none of them had seen this. The miracle of birth that had just thudded to the ground in a wet pile went unnoticed by everyone but me and the buffalo mid-wives.
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It appears by her size and uncertainty that this may well have been this cows first calf. Buffalo breed when they are two years old and have their first calves when they are three. Instinct has taken over and she knows what to do, she just isn’t quite sure how to do it.
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Another even younger cow comes over trying to make sense of all this but just gets in the way confusing this new mother even more. First item of business is to get rid of the afterbirth which she handles very well and before long the brand new calf is clean as a whistle.
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Next on the agenda is to get him up so he can nurse and learn who his mother is. She is having a little trouble with this part and can’t quite figure out how to do it and winds up rolling him over several times.
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More of the older cows arrive and start to check out the new addition. The new mom is off to the left of the calf lying on the ground.
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Seeing the new calf struggling to get up brings more of the older cows nearer while the new mom still appears be bewildered by events. She hasn’t taken charge of the situation yet and looks on more as a spectator rather than the main participant.
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It is a struggle, to be sure, to find your footing when you don’t know how to do anything yet. His legs aren’t doing what he wants and he keeps falling over. At the top of the image a large older cow arrives and takes charge of what is rapidly becoming a chaotic situation.
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Meanwhile life goes on in the herd. Two bulls decide this meadow isn’t big enough for the both of them and attempt to settle things just a few feet away from the struggling new calf. In the background several elk cows are fording the Madison and up on the road the tourists are boarding their bus to go on to the next sight.
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More and more exhausted the young calf still struggles to get up. He needs to nurse to replace the lost energy spent coming into the world. The midwife greets the new arrival
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and with a few nudges quickly helps him to his feet. He mistakenly thinks she is mom but with several more gentle pushes she redirects him to his own mother and nature begins to take it’s course. His mother is standing directly behind the mature cow and you can see the difference in their sizes, as the new mother is almost invisible behind the larger cow.
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He quickly heads in the right direction and finding her is soon nursing. The midwife cow has her own calf to feed but she sticks around a little longer to make sure that everything is working right for the mother.
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As soon as he has drunk his fill the totally exhausted calf and the brand new mother take a much needed rest. The entire episode, from when the calf hit the ground until this first nap, was almost exactly fifteen minutes according to the time stamp on my camera. It doesn’t take long to get born in the Yellowstone.