Vermilion Peak And The Snow Gods

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Lizard Head Pass is one of the famous passes in Colorado. Passes are a big deal in this part of the country if you want to go from one side of the mountains to the other, and most of them have an aura about them from the many stories told about getting to them, crossing over them, and being affected by them. They also have names that reflect their the experiences and feelings travelers have had with them.

Trail ridge, Independence, Cumberland, Iceberg, Slumgullion, Old Monarch, Cordova, Juniper, Red Mountain, Molas, Rabbit Ears and my personal favorite, Wolf creek pass, just to name a few. Wolf Creek is one of the lower passes at only 10,850′ of the batch named above and Trail ridge is the highest at 12,183′.

Many people worry about the dangers of crossing passes. They have a fear of falling off the road and hurtling to their deaths thousands of feet below. That’s usually an unreasonable fear. On most of these passes the most you can fall is a few hundred feet. I’ve always been curious about this and finally talked to one of the road maintenance crew about it. I asked “What are the risks of falling off the road?” His reply was “None, if you stay between the lines.” This is something that I have endeavored to do ever since that conversation. After all here’s a guy that drives these roads every day of the year in every type of weather. I figure he knows what he’s talking about.

Of course what makes a pass a pass is the mountains on either side of the it. On Lizard Head Pass they have some spectacular mountains. The image above is of Vermilion peak which is but one of the many mountains that the state has provided for the weary traveler to look at. There are others but they didn’t fit in the lens during this picture so they will have to be displayed separately at another time. Yellow mountain, Vermilion Peak (shown), Sheep mountain and of course Lizard Head itself are a few.

Vermilion is one of the more impressive mountains to look at, and as it can be seen from dozens of miles away if not more, and people spend a good deal of time looking at it. Consequently it has developed a routine to add to the shock and awe of its presence. One of the things it will do at the drop of a hat is interfere with the passing storm clouds that go by as regularly as the number 14 bus downtown. Here you see it scraping the bottom of a passing snow filled cloud. When this happens it tears open the cloud allowing all the snow it has to fall on it steep sides, kind of like a lucky hit on a piñata. This is enjoyable to watch as long as the snow stays up on the mountainside. When the cloud has more snow than can safely fit on the mountain it swirls down to where the highway is and dumps it there. This can be bad.

Instead of being a neat parlor trick for the tourists now things can get serious. Too much snow and of course you can’t see where you’re going, in fact you can’t see the road and this is where those bad things happen. See the paragraph above referring to “Staying between the lines.” This situation usually occurs more towards the dead of winter but can happen any month of the year depending on how capricious the snow gods are. Today they were just kind of messing around but it is always a good idea to move away from the area whenever they show up.

If you have an overriding desire to see passes and the mountains they live with I highly recommend visiting Lizard Head Pass. Simply go to Cortez, Co. on Hwy 160 and turn right onto Hwy 145, head up the hill and as you pass through the towns of Delores, Rico, Sawpit, Placerville, Norwood and Redvale to where it abruptly ends at Naturita, Co., you will have seen some exciting sights and driven right through Lizard Head pass. That’s assuming you have stayed between the lines of course. Good luck.

Before The Storm

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After nearly a week of beautiful weather the weather gods found out we were in southern Colorado and decided we had had enough sunshine, warm breezes and generally fair weather so this morning instead of the usual sunrise we had the first of many of our snowstorms.

Durango was our host last night as today was the day we were to visit Silverton and Ouray. Both of these places are up at the nosebleed elevations so if we were having rain down here you could bet that it was near blizzard conditions up there. Even as I pondered whether I would attempt it the rain began to turn to sleet then full-fledged snow.

Since going north into the higher country then east through more high country to get home was not only fool-hardy but ill advised I turned our tail to the east and ran before the storm like a sissy, I mean a well seasoned traveler, retracing our path hoping to get to Wolf Creek pass before the storm could catch up to us.

Luckily we made it but just barely, as you can see by the picture above. Wolf Creek pass is over 10,800′ high and is one of the more treacherous passes to cross in the winter, but is the only way back home unless you want to go to Kansas and turn left, so I only stopped at the overlook long enough to grab this image with my trusty iPad. I needed to get over the summit before the storm really arrived because I had neglected to pack the snow chains for the Bokeh Maru and you do not want to drive Wolf Creek in the snow without your chains on. The bones of those vehicles that have tried in the past are still visible, slowly rusting away at the bottom of the cliff.

Tomorrow I should be back broadcasting live from the Directors tower at The Institute bringing you new images and perhaps a story or two, so stay tuned. There’s film, I mean pixels at eleven.

Sunset Off The Mesa

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After a long day in Mesa Verde spent following in the ancients’ footsteps, going from one major house to another, it was time to go home. Or in this case head the Bokeh Maru down from the tabletop towards the next destination. One to be decided tomorrow after a good nights sleep.

The main houses of Mesa Verde are located on a tabletop Mesa twenty miles from the highway. Drive up a very windy road with all the switchbacks you could possibly want and after gaining over 2000′ from the valley floor to the top you’re there. I’ll go into the visits inside the various houses at a later date due to time constraints, but right now it’s time to go home. It’s sunset and as you descend you can look out to the east just like the old ones probably did and watch the mountains across the valley turn purple.

Right now though it’s time to watch the road. It’s a long way down and no guard rails. More to come.

A Night in Cape Disappointment

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As usual every Friday we try and present you with some weekend options. Sometimes it’s a fun suggestion like “OK, let’s go to Mars and stay in a Wickiup.” Other times it may be a more cautionary suggestion as in ” Listen, Really, Don’t eat that worm in the bottom of that bottle.” Or simply something along the lines of “Hey Bozo, Get off that couch and go do something. Whataya doing hanging around the house..” but we always try and help you get through the weekend..

Today we’d like to offer you the option of taking a nice quiet couple of days to yourself or with any one you may choose to share it with, so fire up the Gulfstream G600 and head for the Washington Coast. When you get there head for Cape Disappointment State park ( note: Call ahead to see if their jet pads are available. They fill up fast on the weekends.) and get ready for one of the most relaxing times you can have. Only a small dune separates you from one of the largest oceans on earth but don’t worry, you’ll have plenty of space to call your own while you’re there.

If your concierge is worth his salt he’ll have your Lamborghini Urus SUV waiting at your campsite for a little moonlight off-roading. Imagine the relaxation you and that special person will feel as you move down the shore line at a stately 170 mph., racing along the edge of the sea with your moon roof open, chasing the glint of the last rays of the sunset as it sparkles and highlights the outlines of the incoming waves. You could be scattering the seabirds with the wild abandon you haven’t felt since you last schussed down the east side of Everest.

While you were out chasing the stars your porters, another service provided by your campsite hosts, have been erecting your luxury, Ralph Loren outfitted Teepee, imported directly from the Crow Nation in Montana. Rest those weary bones after a scrumptious meal of the finest fresh caught sea food money can buy. Then recline on your double-king size bed complete with freshly tanned Elk skin throws while you watch the game on your 105″ thin-screen TV.

But before you turn in, make sure you head for the beach to gaze upon a very, very special treat. Your campsite hosts have fired up their art deco completely retro-fitted lighthouse with the magic spinning glass beacon, which casts its beams of boat-saving light out across your very own ocean, just as in the days of yore. All of this just for your viewing pleasure. What could be more romantic than that?

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Well there you have it. It’s all there, waiting for you right now, all you have to do is throw a few things in the bag and hit the steps. Don’t be a couch lizard this weekend when you can go out, have some fun, spend that IRA that has just sitting there waiting for some attention, and have a nice little weekend. What are you waiting for?

Old Friends

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Note to Readers: This is a long post so you might want to find a time when you can sit and have a cup of tea or a glass of wine, to read it at your leisure. And maybe even have a few moments to reflect on some of your old friends, human or otherwise. I believe you can tell how good a friend is or was by how clear their memory is for you at any given time. If that memory is crystal clear and as sharp as a ginzu then that is a very old friend and one to be cherished for as long as you’re able. This is a tale of my old friend. Yours may vary.

I was thinking about old friends lately. I was thinking about how few of them a person really has. And how hard it is to replace them when they’re gone. I’m not talking about new friends or acquaintances, as much as you enjoy their friendship and companionship, I’m talking about those friends that you’ve had for more years than you care to put a number on. The ones you may not have spoken to in weeks or months or even in some cases years but when you do it’s like “Hey, What are you doing? ” and the conversation is off and running like you had spoken to them earlier this morning. How it feels good just to hear their voice. I think if the truth were known not many of us have very many friends like that.

Sometimes, or many times as the case may be, that old friend isn’t even human. I had one like that. In fact I still do, he’s just not with us any more. His name was Bill and when I first met him he was about the size of a toaster. He was half Aussie, half Golden Retriever and half human. He looked like a golden retriever but had the blue eyes and coloring of an Aussie. That is, a bright blue-gray coat with black spots. He looked like Dr. Seuss designed him. I got him from some people I had met who had gotten rid of all the puppies in the litter but Bill, who was returned to them by his new owners because he ate too much. I know, how could a little puppy, even a big little puppy, eat too much.

From the beginning Bill was my dog. Other people could feed him, rub him between his ears, play with him, he’d even lick their face occasionally, but when everything was said and done he was mine. We were bonded and it was for life. Anyone who has ever experienced this bond, attachment, love, call it what you will, knows exactly what I’m talking about. Those of you who haven’t I hope that someday you will.

For all the years I had him, unless I was physically gone, I was never out of his sight. He would lie so that I could be seen and if I got up to go to another room it wouldn’t be long until I’d hear him quietly get up and move so he could see me again.

There were several things Bill loved beyond price, or even dog food. One would be to go along and ride with me in the truck. It didn’t matter if I only backed down the driveway and up again he had to be along. In fact sometimes I would do that if we hadn’t been somewhere in a while. He seemed to need it. I had an old blue dodge pickup I called the Enola Gay and it belonged more to Bill than it did me. If I didn’t leave the door open so he could get in and sit he would lie moaning next to it until I couldn’t stand it anymore and go open it for him.

One day I had gone into town to pick something up and Bill was with me. All the windows were down as it was hot and the Enola Gay didn’t have air conditioning. I had to nip in and get my stuff. So Bill had to stay there in the truck. This was before the days when it was a felony to leave an animal in the car alone. I was gone a few minutes and when I got back there was a very irate woman standing there berating me for leaving Bill in that hot truck. I listened to her tirade for a while then opened the door and told her to try and get him out. It was the only time I ever saw Bill growl at anybody.

The Enola Gay was Bill’s second home. He rode in the front seat and it was his spot. When someone else was sitting there he was incensed. In fact sulky would be a better word. It was the first time I learned that dogs could be passive aggressive. There would be many a nasty glance thrown at the interloper and Bill would position himself in the backseat so his head was just over the passenger’s shoulder and drool. He never drooled otherwise. Sit in his place and you were going to pay the price.

Bill was a very intelligent dog, but like all intelligent beings he had his flaws. As much as he loved riding in the Enola Gay he never quite got the hang of the whole balancing thing, like when to lean and which direction to do it in as we would go around a corner. He’d always lean the wrong way and lose his balance and tip over and fall on the floor and have to scramble up on the seat again. After this happened he would steadily look out the side window as if he had meant to do that all along. He could affect an air of damaged dignity that was amazing to behold.

The other thing would be, he’d smack his nose on the dashboard whenever I’d have to make a quick stop and given the way I drive, that was fairly often. He would hold me directly responsible after that happened. I would get the look first, then the silent treatment, and if I’d try and make it up to him by patting him he’d shrug it off like “Don’t touch me. You’re a stupid driver.”

We finally worked through the whole riding in the truck thing, by my teaching him how to lean in the corners so he didn’t make a fool of himself. It was pretty simple after I figured it out. All I had to do was reach over and put my hand on his side of the direction we were turning and he’d lean into it, So if we were going to make a right hand turn I’d put my hand onto his right side as we were turning into the corner and he’d lean into it and we’d make it through the corner without him falling all over and looking dumb. The moment he got that and saw how it worked he was insufferable. It was all “Hey turn the corner! ” ” Come on, Do it again.” and “Look at me. I can survive your driving.” and “Yeah, I’m cool.”

The other thing with the nose smacking was even easier to fix once we got into this training thing. He seemed to know when we were in a training situation and figured stuff out quicker each time. A simple pushing down on his head while yelling “Down!” as I panic stopped and soon whenever he felt the brakes go on he’d crouch down with head between his paws like someone was going to hit him with a baseball bat and when I started going again he get up and rather disdainfully look at me, as if to say “Where the hell did you learn to drive” The “dumbass” was understood.

Bill seemed to love words. He had an amazing vocabulary. He could distinguish between words like “Ball” and “Bowl”. If you asked him to get one or the other he would always bring you the one you asked for. Except if he didn’t understand you. Once I had a cold or something and in a gravelly muffled tone said “Bill, Go get your bowl.” and he brought back his ball. I said “No not your ball, your bowl.” and still not quite getting it he went over to where his bowl was, set his ball down, looked at me as if he were considering what my problem was, picked up his ball again, put it in the bowl bringing both back to me. He got an extra portion of dog gruel for that one.

We were living in and old Victorian at the time and went to a lot of home shows and garden shows and stuff like that. If you’ve been to those you know you acquire a lot of brochures and things to bring home and immediately throw out. You could have thrown it out as you left the building but apparently it’s important you bring that stuff home to throw out. But while you’re there you need something to carry all of that crap in. There was always somebody giving out bags but you had to trade your name, address and phone number to get one. So I’d always sign us up as Bill DeDog. It wasn’t long before the calls started coming in. “Can we speak to Mr. DeDog please?” “Sorry he can’t talk to you right now.” “Well can we call back at a more convenient time” “Sure, anytime”. “That was for you” I’d tell him. It always seemed to please him.

What he really liked though was the mailman, or more specifically, mail time. Our mail was delivered to the door then, so the bell would ring and Bill and I would race to the door for the mail. Normally we’d get a stack of mail that would choke a horse and I’d stand there and sort through it, giving Bill the pieces that were addressed to him. This was always a very serious time. I’d show it to him and point out where it was addressed to him and he’d patiently wait until I finally gave it to him. You don’t screw around with the mail, this was a big deal for him. I’d take a piece and say “this one’s for you.” and he’d carefully take it in his mouth and carry it back to his bed and put it on the pile that was his mail. If there was a big heavy flyer he’d sometimes carry it around for a long time. He’d rarely get it soggy even if he held it until he’d thoroughly crushed it in two.

Bill left me in the spring of the year. We were just beginning to build our dream home in the mountains and I was looking forward to having Bill on the jobsite as the resident “Jobsite Dog”, a title I knew he would love to have. He was so vain. Having the acreage to run around on wouldn’t hurt either. But it wasn’t to be. Bill had a tumor and it wasn’t long before the trips to the vet got closer together and lasted longer and longer, and then came a moment when the worst decision I ever had to make was made. And that was that.

I buried Bill up at the house on the side of the hill where he could look out at the plains and be close. It was at the foot of a big rock formation that we named Picnic Rock. That was where we’d go and plan how the house was going to be, have a picnic, and Bill would join me afterwards on the rocks while I smoked a cigar and he watched the birds fly by. Today nearly twenty years after he’s gone, his bowl, the same one he brought his ball to me in, is still sitting on the cairn over his grave. I go there every so often, not so much any more, because for some reason it’s still so hard to think about him, or more clearly, his loss. Maybe that’s just a function of old age but my old friend is still very close to me. I knew someone once who said to me that there should be a law where your pets had to live as long as you did. I would like to see that one passed.

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Bill and his person. Picnic Rock circa 1994

Last Bridge To Rivendell

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Often reality and fantasy can overlap for those who wander. Sometimes in small ways, other times in huge overwhelming ways that wash over them as they suddenly see what they’ve only imagined from reading someone else’s verbal pictures.

Such was the case for me when I viewed Multnomah falls for the first time. It wasn’t just the slender falls itself with its graceful plunge of over 560′ into the clear pool  below. Or the bottom falls which fell another 69′ onto a rocky platform where the cool water gathered itself then rushed musically down the side of the cliff to empty into the Columbia river.

That alone would have been awe-inspiring in itself, but then to add the graceful bridge spanning the distance over the lower falls where one can stand and feel the cool mist drift across your senses had to have been done by someone who knew Elves and the magic folk personally. Or perhaps having traveled to those places and experiencing the beauty couldn’t bear to leave them behind.

As you approach up a wide stone staircase to a viewing area that allows you to see the entire scene at once, you are suddenly thrust into another place, another world where anything can happen, where you might meet creatures from a land of fantasy that you only thought was imaginary. A place where magic was possible and you might have powers you never dreamed of before. This could be a gateway that, if you allow yourself and can throw caution to the winds, you might just visit a land of wonder and adventure the likes of which you have never imagined before.

Multnomah falls is just one of the many waterfalls in the real world that you can visit while traveling along old highway 30, a scenic byway that parallels I-84 in the Columbia gorge. If you get the chance, go there, you might just get an opportunity to take a journey to a place you did not expect to go.

Taming The Columbia

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There is an area of the Columbia river that is bounded on one side by I-84 and the Mosier-The Dalles highway and by the Lewis and Clark highway on the other side. It is a narrow spot on the river made more so by the high cliffs on either side which forces the river to run faster and have very choppy water. It also forces the wind, which blows through here screaming like a banshee, to funnel through this valley at a very constant rate. It is located in the Cascade Locks area of Oregon and the border between Washington and Oregon runs right down the middle of the river, invisibly dividing it in two.

I saw these individuals on the river performing activities that I had never seen before, so as an investigator of new phenomenon I was duty bound to stop and, well, investigate. I wanted to find out as much as I could about this strange waterborne behavior. Luckily there were local experts there that were eager to fill me in on the facts.

My questions were quite pointed. “Why do people do this?” “Is there any useful purpose being accomplished here?” “What kind of glue do you use to hold your feet to the board when you leave the water?” “Does it bother the fish to have someone jumping up and down on their roof?” Amazed at my questions and after learning that I was on a fact-finding mission and would be reporting their answers to the world at large through this blog, they virtually fell all over each other to give me the straight story. Setting down his 40oz can of Olympia one thoughtful fellow looked at me and began to tell me about how they were involved in a major environmental struggle to contain the mighty Columbia river and prevent a catastrophic event that could endanger half the western Pacific.

It seems that in times past the Columbia ran down to the sea completely unchecked. There was nothing between its origin and the Pacific ocean to control its riotous, mad dash to the sea. As it did so it’s level would rise to startling but dangerous heights. Countless times trees were uprooted and sand bars washed away, creating mini-environmental disasters. Fish were disoriented and couldn’t tell upstream from down and consequently were swept out to sea to die a horrible death by drowning. Native Americans were fearful of throwing their nets into the river, less they too, would be dragged down to Portland and suffer the fate of being exposed to the white people’s sinful ways in the strip clubs and gin mills of the inner city. It seemed that natural chaos reigned and something had to be done.

The answer was obvious after a fortunate accident occurred. A carpenter named Phil, fell while carrying a plank across a dock and landed on the river astride the wide board. Knowing of the dangers in reaching Portland he immediately removed his shirt and by holding it by its arms to try and flag down help, watched in amazement as it filled with the strong winds of the Columbia gorge, becoming a sail which he could safely guide his way back to shore.

Soon carpenters were falling in the river with their planks at an alarming rate until all you could see was a field of flag waving, wide board carpenters filling the gorge from one side to the other. It was then that the real discovery was made. A waterman whose main job it was, was to watch the water for suspicious activity, noticed that the more carpenters they piled on the river the lower it got. It was one of those eureka type moments that those Oregonians are noted for. It wasn’t long before the discoveries of jumping up and down tamped the river down, as it were and packed it to a more acceptable level. It was also noted that you didn’t need carpenters to do this. Almost anyone with a minimum level of brain cells could be trained to strap on a sail and go out and ‘Tamp the River’.

Today, right now in fact, if you’re driving down the gorge you can see swarms of maintenance crews out there, sails in the air, boards on their feet, tamping the river for all their worth, keeping it at acceptable yet safe, levels. Yes their gear has changed. No longer do they use the heavy old pine planks of days long gone, nor do they rip up perfectly good shirts to make their sails. Everything is poly-this and Poly-that and the brighter the better although I think that is more due to them not wanting to be hit and sunk by the pesky freighters that sail up and down the channel.

The old salt that was telling me this looked me in the eye and said with a perfectly straight face, “and that’s why we do what we do”. I couldn’t write fast enough. To be able to get the hidden story that isn’t shared with the public at large was an honor. It isn’t often that the truth gets shared as honestly as this and I was more than glad to pay for the next case or two of Oly’s as they called them. The old salt simply smiled at me and I almost felt as if I were taking advantage of them because now I had a story that I could tell that hadn’t been heard before and how could you put a price on that.